Fegato alla Veneziana, a Venetian specialty of sautéed calf’s liver with onions, is one of the most iconic dishes served throughout the city. (Image: Manos Angelakis/LuxuryWeb Magazine)
Published with permission from LuxuryWeb Magazine
Fegato alla Veneziana, a Venetian specialty of sautéed calf’s liver with onions, is one of the most iconic dishes of La Serenissima, alongside risi e bisi (rice and peas). Stroll through Venice, and you’ll find it featured on nearly every menu, from humble bacari to high-end luxury hotel restaurants.
One establishment is known for serving the definitive version of this dish — Harry’s Bar, the legendary Venetian haunt where Ernest Hemingway had his own reserved table while working on revisions for “Across the River and into the Trees.”
RELATED: Risi e Bisi: Make This Venetian Delight at Home Using Cheap, Easy Ingredients
Below is Giuseppe Cipriani’s original recipe, which I received during a trip to Venice in 2015.
Ingredients:
- 2 lb. calf’s liver, trimmed with the thin membrane peeled off
- 5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided (3 tbsp. and 2 tbsp.)
- 6 small yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced
- 4 tbsp. butter
- ½ bunch parsley, trimmed and chopped
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper (coarse sea salt and Malabar black pepper are considered the best combination)
Method:
- Using a sharp knife, cut the liver into four long pieces with the grain, then slice each piece crosswise into smaller portions.
- Heat 3 tbsp. of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and golden brown. Be careful not to burn them. Remove the onions with a slotted spoon and set aside.
- Increase the heat to medium-high and add the remaining oil. Once the oil is sizzling hot, add the liver in batches, ensuring the skillet isn’t overcrowded. Cook until browned and crispy on the edges, about 4–5 minutes per batch. Season liberally with salt and pepper, then return the onions and any accumulated juices to the pan. Cook for another 2 minutes, stirring constantly while shaking the skillet over the heat. Transfer to a warm serving platter.
- Add butter to the skillet, allowing it to melt and deglaze the pan. Remove from heat and stir in the parsley. Spoon the mixture over the liver and onions. Serve with grilled polenta.
Expert tip: A heavy cast-iron skillet works best for electric stovetops.
If you’re a Hemingway aficionado, consider pairing your fegato with a high-quality Valpolicella Superiore. My personal favorite is “Mai Dire Mai” (which translates to “never say never” in Italian) from Cantina Pasqua — a bottle I always reach for when preparing this dish.
“Across the River and into the Trees” was Hemingway’s first novel following “For Whom the Bell Tolls” in 1940. While revising the book in Venice during the winter of 1950, he famously indulged in bottles of Valpolicella, a tradition that pairs beautifully with this timeless Venetian dish.
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Original article: https://www.visiontimes.com/2025/02/12/learn-how-to-make-this-hemingway-favorite-classic-fegato-alla-veneziana.html
